Baker Dave: The reign of the brioche bun has been long and fruitful, as it’s just so soft and sweet and good to eat with meat.

Perhaps it’s time to put this stalwart out to pasture; but, before that day comes, let’s push the envelope. We’ve dropped the butter here – because it’s just not decadent enough – and replaced it with the most delicious rendered aged beef fat to ramp up the umami and cow-like goodness. Come and stand on top of the mountain with us – the view is sublime and full of beefy sun rays, and there’s a funky flavoursome flag on top with a little illustration of a Devonshire cow’s face.

Ingredients

100g aged beef fat (fridge-cold) – ask your butcher for suet fat (from the kidneys) or back fat (from around the sirloin)

10g dried yeast

3 eggs

75ml milk

75g warm water

10g honey or maple syrup, plus a drizzle

375g strong white bread flour

50g wholemeal flour

10g salt

1 egg yolk, lightly whisked with a drop of water

Method

1. First, render the fat. Simply dice the fat , stick in a saucepan and leave over a gentle or indirect heat, stirring occasionally. After an hour or so, the fat will very slowly melt into a golden liquid. You can even use the leftover fat from a large beef roast or steak. Never waste that beautiful fat. Pass the contents of the pan through a strainer, allow the fat to cool, then store it in an airtight container in the fridge. It will keep for up to 6 weeks.

2. Now for the brioche. Activate the yeast with 2 tablespoons of water and a drizzle of honey. Put the eggs, milk, warm water, yeast and honey into a large jug and give it a brisk whisk to amalgamate.

3. Weigh the flours and salt into the bowl of your stand mixer and, using the hook attachment, combine gently before adding the jug of wet stuff. Mix for 4 minutes on slow, then turn up the speed to medium-fast. With the mixer running, pour in half the beef fat.

4. When it is incorporated, add the remaining beef fat. After the beef fat is fully incorporated, mix for another 4 minutes on medium-fast until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl and is silky smooth. Let it rest, covered, for 40 minutes.

5. Divide the dough into 90g (3oz) pieces and roll into tight balls.

6. Place evenly spaced in a baking tin lined with baking parchment (they will grow in size) and brush with egg yolk.

7. Leave to prove somewhere warm. When the buns have increased in size slightly but not doubled, give them a second egg wash. Leave to prove for a further 10-15 minutes, or until doubled in size.

8. Meanwhile, get the wood oven up to temp then remove all the coals. If using a conventional oven, preheat to 190°C (375°F).

9. Place the proved buns in the cooker and bake for 10 minutes, then rotate the baking sheet and bake for another 5 minutes, or until golden brown. Leave to cool, slice, fill and enjoy.

DJ BBQ’s Backyard Baking by Christian Stevenson, Chris Taylor and David Wright (Quadrille, £20) Photography: David Loftus