Drink with Roger Jones

Vegan food is not just for vegans, and, with plenty of added umami flavours, you may be surprised by the variety of dishes you can create; not to mention the quality of vegan wines to accompany them.

Wine uses fining agents to clarify wine and the two main agents are egg whites for red wine (albumen) and milk protein for white wine (casein). It is important to remember they are processing agents, not additives, so they won’t be clearly listed on a label and generally they are removed, although there will always be traces left.

With the rise of veganism, along with an increased desire for organic and bio-dynamic wines, winemakers across the world are taking note and adopting a more natural approach. If wines are left to develop completely naturally, they will usually self-fine, reducing the need to introduce animal products into the process. For the wines that don’t self-fine, there are alternative fining agents available for winemakers, including clay-based methods.

However, unlike vegan food where even avocados are out due to the forced movement of bees to pollinate them, vegan wine does not follow the same strict rules.

Two of the leading vegan wine companies are Spoke from New Zealand and Yalumba wines from Australia – top wines that also happen to be vegan.

Ben Glover from Spoke is one of New Zealand’s leading environmentally friendly winemakers, working with nature and climate to produce wines of exceptional quality. Yalumba, based in Angaston, South Australia and still family-owned through several generations, dates back to 1894 and epitomises all that is great about Australian wine.

Spoke Awatere Sauvignon Blanc 2022

Paired with sweetcorn ribs, coconut and sesame oil.
Forget the cliched ‘cat’s pee’ New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc; this is much more like a Sancerre from France. It is bright, fresh elegant and clean cut, with aromatics of white peaches and hints of gooseberry with lemon and lime zest. The raw corn on the cob is sliced down the middle, marinated in coconut and sesame oil, seasoned with salt and pepper and then glazed for five minutes on the BBQ. Throw some fresh herbs on top to enhance the experience.

Spoke Brink Sauvignon/Semillon 2022

Paired with charred leeks, and pistachio and coriander chutney.
Fabulously textured wine, the freshness from the Sauvignon combines with the textured creamy Semillon. There are notes of lemon grass, white peaches, and lanolin. The chutney is easy to make: combine two bunches of coriander including the stems, 100g/3½oz pistachios, two green chillies, a tablespoon of olive oil, a bunch of garlic chives and two squeezed limes.

This is such a simple dish to prepare, but make sure the leeks are not too big; the smaller they are the sweeter they are. Marinade in olive oil and sea salt, then straight on the BBQ till you have a good char colour to the leeks. Serve with the chutney.  

Spoke Amped Chardonnay 2022

Paired with roast celeriac with Perigord truffles and soy & shallot dressing.
Think Chablis. Crisp apple, fresh stone fruit and refreshingly moreish.  Wash/brush the whole celeriac (do not peel) and rub with a solution of olive oil and salt. If you do not have any fresh truffles to hand, substitute with truffle oil. Barbecue with the lid on for an hour. Allow the celeriac to char on the outside, pull off the heat, slice off the top and pierce holes into the root with skewers. Then fill with olive oil and salt or truffle oil. Or if you’re feeling generous, grate fresh truffles on top of the celeriac. Serve with gently cooked shallots with soy sauce and chopped parsley added.

Oxford Landing Merlot 2021

Paired with BBQ red cabbage, Asian spices, wild garlic and chilli chutney, raisins and balsamic vinegar.
This luscious Merlot is full of ripe fruit. Red cherries ooze off the palate, followed by juicy plums and a velvety silky finish. Wrap the red cabbage in greaseproof paper and then foil. Pour a handful of golden raisins on top, together with a good glug of balsamic vinegar, a dash of soy sauce, bay leaf and salt, and seal the foil. Bake in the BBQ for one hour then allow to rest. As you carve the whole red cabbage, watch the bloody red juices ooze from the ‘roast’.

Yalumba Galway Shiraz 2021

Paired with Jerusalem artichoke skewers, rosemary and garlic oil.
Blackberries and vanilla spice, fresh and vibrant, luscious and warming, this is a wine full of excitement. Jerusalem artichokes do take time to cook so give then a good scrub, but do not peel. Then boil for 20 minutes prior to chilling, before placing in a plastic bag filled with chopped garlic, rosemary, sea salt and olive oil with some lemon rind. Finally, place on a skewer and throw on to the flames.

Yalumba Organic Viognier 2022

Paired with aubergine/eggplant Madras, mango chutney and coconut cream.
This Viognier is aromatic with a fragrant herbaceous nose. On the palate think honeysuckle, fennel and apricot. These nectar flavours combine into a silky, succulent, juicy wine, perfect for spiced food. Cut the aubergine/eggplant in half and then take out as much of the core as you can, looking to leave the shell perfectly shaped. Chop up the aubergine/eggplant core, combining with finely chopped garlic, ginger, shallots and sweet red peppers. Cook with curry spices for 20 minutes in olive oil and add chopped vine tomatoes, coriander and coconut. Place back into the aubergine shells and roast on the barbecue.

Fizz, Fish and Fire with Roger Jones

Issue 11 | Spring 2023

One of the most common mistakes consumers make is to categorise Cava and Prosecco in the same ice bucket.

The traditional method of making a bottle of fizz involves creating a still wine and then bottling it with yeast and sugar, which form bubbles when left to ferment.

Champagne, English Sparkling and Cava are made in this way, while Prosecco uses the tank method.

Adding yeast means time is needed for the flavours to evolve. Champagne takes a minimum of 15 months to produce the best flavours and aromas, while Cava can be made from nine months, but often much longer.

The tank method used by Prosecco is a much more economical and simpler process, with everything processed in a tank, with this process taking from less than six weeks to six months.

Prosecco is made from one grape variety – Glera. It is a white variety of Slovenian origin, which was brought to the Italian village of Prosecco. Prior to 2009 the grape was called Prosecco, but EEC rules forced the name change to protect the wine’s status.

The Glera grape has little complexity or flavour, hence the addition of sugar resulting in a sweeter style sparkling.

The key, besides the quality of the grapes, is time, which is then reflected in the cost and style.

Cava is aged from nine months to over 48 months (for Gran Reserva), or even over 100 months for special releases.

Cava uses not only traditional Champagne grapes such as Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, but local Spanish varieties, which make up the majority of the production. The main ones are Macabeo (providing fruit), Xarel-lo (strength and body) and Parellada (softness and aroma).

95% of Cava comes from the Penedès region of Catalonia, about an hour’s drive from Barcelona. However, not everything has been ‘sparkling’ for Cava growers.

Firstly the EEC upset them with regulations when Spain joined the Common Market in 1986 and more recently the setting up of clubs by the small growers seeking to highlight their quality against the big two giants Freixenet and Codorniu.

The latest club, set up in 2018, is Corpinnat, consisting of 11 members. Rules to join this club include certified organic grapes and historical varieties, manual harvest and 100% vinified on the premises, with minimum ageing of 18 months.

This naturally means that certain great Cava producers are excluded, for example, for using Chardonnay, but it is definitely a way forward to highlight the quality coming from Sparkling wine in Penedès.

So what can we expect from Cava? It is made in the exact way as Champagne or English sparkling wine and will offer you excellent quality and value. You can spend more, just like with Champagne, and rest assured these are quite superb, but I would suggest to start with you look at something like Pere Ventura at £8.99 and Juve & Camps at under £15.

Cava will be dry, not sweet like Prosecco. Cost is, of course, a reflection of quality but spending between £9 and £15 offers great value. Cava in this price range should reflect cheaper Champagne brands.

Pere Ventura Reserva Non Vintage is fresh, clean and easy drinking, with toasty brioche with fresh apple, and great value at £8.99 in Waitrose. The range includes the excellent Pere Ventura, Vintage Brut, 2012.

Juve y Camps, Brut Nature Gran Reserva, 2017 is made from free run juice, with 55% Xarel-lo, 35% Macabeo and 10% Parellada. This is fresh and clean on first taste; then the golden wine evolves with some toasty brioche, stone fruit and fresh citrus.

This has been aged on average for three years giving it great complexity, with a perfect alcohol level of 12%. Priced at £14.99 at Majestic makes it one of the best value aged vintage sparkling wines in the UK.

Juve y Camps, La Siberia Gran Reserva Rose, 2012 is at the other end of the price range and available at Harvey Nichols at £160 a bottle. This 100% Pinot Noir is named La Siberia because of the cold climate the vines are grown in, which ripen very slowly, producing an incredible quality wine that has aged on lees for about 80 months.

There are tangerine, fresh bakery notes, hints of mineral and barbecue smoke, freshened with dark raspberries, cherries, frais de bois, rosebuds and a scent of pure joy. The packaging looks not dissimilar to Dom Perignon and very much in the same class.

Gramona Imperial, Corpinnat, Brut 2017 is of the exclusive Corpinnat group. This Cava has had 15 months on lees and is full of clean precise stone fruit, nectarines and peaches, savoury and spiced – a very elegant style for just over £20 a bottle. The range goes right up to the incredible Celler Batlle Brut 2010, which has been aged for 108 months and will set you back over £100.

In terms of food pairings, paella is of course a classic Spanish dish we know and love and its contents vary dependent on the region or closeness to the sea. This gives you the opportunity to expand your culinary skills and impress your guests. To most people paella is based on seafood, but it can equally work as vegetarian, meat only, or a combination of all three.

Some basic cooking tips are to use either paella or Arborio rice. Add plenty of juicy ingredients, so chicken should be skinless thighs; use cooking chorizo – with spice – picante, red onions, sweet pointed red peppers, good quality paprika, extra virgin olive oil. In a variation from normal mussels, look to monkfish (on the cartilage), shelled raw frozen prawns, langoustines and clams. The best liquid to add is Big Tom tomato juice or a quality supermarket tomato and basil sauce.

Paella pans are inexpensive with lots of good value ones online. The secret is in keeping the heat monitored.

Fish is a fine match for Cava. Be it small sardines, sea bream or sea bass, these oily fish are lovely dipped in olive oil and salt prior to grilling. A touch of charcoal burn is fine on the skin, while a splash of lemon juice will refresh it.

The big new food pairing for Cava is Japanese, especially sushi. So if you are starting off your BBQ with some nibbles, either order some sushi in, or make up a few simple bites to go with your Cava.

Fizz, fish and fire – the perfect combination.

Grenache with Roger Jones

This may not be on everyone’s shopping list, but, in recent years, the Grenache grape has grown in momentum and stature. At the very top, from the Rhône in France, there is Chateau Rayas at £2,000 a bottle, to an Australian wine at under £10.

There cannot be many grape varieties that have seen such a monumental change in their prosperity than Grenache, especially from Australia. Grenache was originally used in Australia for their fortified wines; after the end of World War II vineyards were planted in South Australia with Grenache and given to returning soldiers at hugely discounted prices. For many years these went into bulk and homemade wines, with the vineyards now highly sought after due to their age and quality.

Grenache is popular in the Rhône, especially with Châteauneuf-du-Pape, although this wine can include Mourvèdre and Syrah. The flavours from a classic Châteauneuf-du-Pape have a raspberry and plummy feel to begin with, then they will evolve in your mouth, giving savoury and herby notes. Wine buffs call these herb notes garrigue, reflecting the local scrubland around the vines, full of sage, rosemary and lavender. On the finish there is a sweet strawberry freshness.

Spain is another hotbed of Grenache, known there as Garnacha and made famous by some superstars from Priorat. This success prompted some of Spain’s younger, more modern winemakers to see that Garnacha had potential all over the country. Consequently you will find winemakers in places like Aragón in the north, and in central Spain around Madrid. Garnacha is also often used in blends to give their red wines a fresh uplift.

The style of Garnacha from Spain is fruitier, often with a touch more alcohol – think raspberry and strawberries with a dusting of white pepper; with older, more expensive wines think plummy, rich ripe figs.

California also has Grenache on an upward spiral but check the percentage as they can hit 15%, although anything below 13.5% will be pretty pleasant on the head.

Summer Road Old Vine Grenache 2022

South Australia | £7.49

A bargain here from Waitrose. Fresh bright strawberry notes, hints of vanilla spice, juicy and lively – an excellent introduction to the Grenache grape.

Care, Garnacha Nativa 2020

Carinena, Spain | £11.95

Textured with a minty chocolate note, creamy strawberry mid-palate and a full mouth feel. Great Spanish style.

Willunga 100, 2021 Smart Vineyard Clarendon Grenache

McLaren Vale, Australia | £28

Loganberries, delicate blackberries, gentle perfume, spiced fruity and velvety. This is fresh, clean and focused – a glorious mouth feel, young and fresh, but plenty of character, with an impressive cool feel on the end. This winery makes a range of Grenache wines, with the cheapest starting at £12.50 a bottle.

The Language of Yes Grenache 2020

Santa Maria, California | £30

Big, aromatic, perfumed style, clean on the palate, pomegranate, hint of ice cream, cool and fresh with a silky luxurious feel. Restrained on the alcohol, this is a lovely wine, showing great class.

Annexus Grenache, John Duval 2022

Eden Valley, Barossa, Australia | £40

I first met John Duval when he was holding the keys to Penfolds Grange, Australia’s foremost wine, and have followed the journey to his own label.

This 95% Grenache (with a small amount of Shiraz and Mataro) is sourced from vines planted 165 years ago, at the Stonegarden Vineyard, just outside Springton in the Eden Valley.

This is plush with dark but precise notes, voluptuous and restrained in the same mouthful – rich spices, vibrant aromatics, focused with a racy acidity. This is complex and complete, with a beautiful perfume. Quite exceptional.

Yangarra High Sands Grenache 2019

Blewitt Springs, McLaren Vale, Australia | £150

This vineyard was planted in 1946. Yangarra has championed Grenache for some time and this wine shows real class, albeit it at £150 a bottle. This has sensitivity throughout, seamless with bright freshness balanced with spices and savoury notes. Cranberry and cherries, with some herbaceous notes, as the wine opens up on the palate with a wonderful mouth feel. This really does showcase how good Grenache can be.

BBQ food to pair with Grenache

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Tandoori chicken

The simplest way to make a great Tandoori chicken is to blend a jar of lime pickle with equal amounts of Greek yoghurt and coat the whole chicken with the mixture. Roast in the barbecue until golden in colour and allow plenty of time to rest before serving.

Ox tongue

Possibly the cheapest, most tender, flavoursome piece of meat you will find. Firstly, precook the whole tongue, ideally in a pressure cooker. When it is cooked, allow to cool down in the liquid; do not skin it until its chilled, otherwise it will form another skin. Place on a large skewer or rotisserie fork, and coat in spices of your choice, from a masala mix to Thai spices. Wrapping it in some bacon will give it extra moisture, then simply barbecue until hot.

Duck heart skewers

Succulent, meaty and sweet, with smoked paprika.

Whole grilled sea bream

A great winter dish, spiced up with Arabic ground spices.

Refreshment for the flames

We like to plan the food for the barbecue and select our favourite meats from the local butcher. But don’t forget the drinks – made for pairing and sharing – says ANDY CLARKE

Issue 6 | Winter 2021

Half the fun of eating flame-kissed food is the drinks that go with it. But all too often we get stumped unnecessarily at the refreshment hurdle.

My advice is – don’t get stressed out by it. A barbecue or pizza oven-fuelled bonanza is a reason for celebration and this means that drinks should flow without anxiety. So, here’s a guide to what goes with some of my favourite barbecue dishes:

Gin & Tonic

Before your guests arrive, I think it’s essential to start your barbecue preparation with a drink in hand, and a gin and tonic is a deliciously light way to start proceedings. Perhaps it’s the result of watching too many Keith Floyd programmes when I was younger, but I like to prepare food with a drink in my hand. I find fizzy drinks with a little zing accompany this culinary journey rather well. It’s great to start the pre-party proceedings with the sound of ice clinking around your glass. To be perfectly honest, these sorts of drinks don’t tend to match with the robust flavour of flame-grilled food but they’re a great way to enliven the palate while getting the salads and marinades started. Whitley Neill Original London Dry Gin is a classic that will slip down easily. It’s full of juniper and citrus notes and has a soft texture and smooth finish.

Sparkling Wine

There’s something about the bubbles in sparkling wine that is exciting and celebratory. For many years Britain has produced some fantastic examples of fizz and, year-on-year, they just seem to get even more impressive. As a rule, dry sparkling wine pairs beautifully with the delicate sweetness of barbecued seafood like scallops and prawns, as well as the salty charms of halloumi cheese. It’s also a total winner with barbecued sweetcorn. But if you’d like a real treat, why not treat yourself to a sparkling rosé. One of my favourites at the moment is the award-winning Ridgeview Rosé de Noirs 2016 from Sussex, which is made with Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier grapes. I’m a big fan of creating prawn and chorizo skewers, which is where this deliciously berry-driven sparkler comes into its own. The combination of shellfish and paprika-rich sausage is a winner.

White Wine

White wine can be a real treat when flame-cooking white fish. The refreshing nature of white wine complements delicate seafood nicely. If the fish is an oily variety like salmon, sea bream or mackerel, it can cut through the texture of the fish in the same way that a squeeze of lemon juice works over smoked salmon. But something that is really underrated is the way that white wine can work with vegetables – the chargrilled veg that go over the coals as well as the salads that accompany barbecues. I love an oaked Chardonnay from Chile with flame-cooked veg because of its fruity character, but I also enjoy a Sauvignon Blanc too. Leyda Single Vineyard Garuma Sauvignon Blanc is a real winner with green vegetables and salads. The grassy notes of this Sauvignon Blanc along with hints of gooseberry and grapefruit marry perfectly with chargrilled leeks and asparagus. It’s also great with poultry that has been basted in garlic or herb butters, not to mention sweetcorn that’s been basted in chilli butter.

Red Wine

Red wine isn’t the first thing you think about drinking when the sun is hot and the barbecue is even hotter, but if you’re eating red meat, it’s totally the drink to be sipping. There’s huge diversity in the red wines that are out there, but for chargrilled steak, you want something pretty juicy and robust. While Rioja is a great go-to wine for butterflied lamb, Malbec from Argentina is a classic wine for steak and, in my opinion, it’s the perfect one-stop wine to accompany a barbecue. The Argentinians love their beef and they really know what they’re doing when it comes to making good Malbec.

The spicy notes in fruity Beefsteak Club Malbec work wonderfully with steak, but this Mendoza wine also pairs nicely with the rich fleshy nature of aubergine once it has been flame-blistered. Aubergine is unique and robust, so it can stand up to red wine. The tannins and underlying peppery finish of Malbec coat your teeth and fill your mouth in a way that is really nice with red meat and richer vegetables.

Lager / Ale / Beer

Lager, ale and beer are often thought to be the perfect partner for the person in charge of the barbecue – can in one hand, tongs in the other. This may be true for many barbecue head chefs, but I believe that there are some great examples of lager, ale and beer that pair nicely with barbecued food. I love spatchcocking a chicken and letting it char over coals, so a drop like Hempathy is a winner with this. This ale is a collaboration between Stroud Brewery in Gloucestershire and well-known chef Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall. Hemp is closely related to the hop so Hugh saw how the seeds would make a great ingredient here. The malty, nutty tones of this drink are just fabulous with poultry as well as meatier, robust fish like monkfish. The creamy texture is incredibly food friendly and is also a great match with pork sausages and butter-basted sweetcorn too. But, for me, an absolute stonker of a beer is BBQ magazine’s very own BBQ Rye IPA. Made by Powder Monkey Brewing in Gosport, Hampshire, this delicious sip is made specifically to accompany barbecued food. The spicy caramel-kissed amber charms of this ale is a lovely change to some of the usual suspects you see in cans. If you’re having lamb chops or a really good juicy burger, there’s nothing better than this to sip alongside. And if you’re doing something a little different, like chicken livers on skewers or duck, this Rye IPA will slip down a treat.

Cider

Cider is probably my favourite BBQ accompaniment. The apple freshness of a sparkling cider is so versatile. It can transcend the whole event from start to finish and stands up to so many different dishes. The crisp apple flavours of a good cider work so well with fire-cooked food. The sweetness of corn is fabulous with sparkling cider, as is the robust flavour of chargrilled red peppers. Apple drinks like cider work a treat with meats like chunky pork chops as it cuts through that deliciously rich caramelised fat perfectly. Chicken is also a good friend of cider, especially when brushed with herb butter. And if you’re cooking scallops, the sweet nature of the scallop meat is perfect with cider. And let’s not forget the sensational flavour of homemade flame-cooked pizzas. The tang of a tomato-based, cheese-topped pizza is just fabulous with a glass of orchard happiness. Dry cider can be delicious, but when it comes to food and drink matching, I believe that a medium cider can be wonderful, especially if you’re eating spicy sauces, dressings and marinades. The herbaceous heat of chimichurri loves fruity medium cider. A great example of this is Sandford Orchards Devon Red Cider, which is a tangy and refreshing medium cider, named after the rich red soil of the orchards, or a Sandford Orchards Devon Mist.

Rum

Let’s not leave spirits off of the guest list. They’re a great sip when you fancy something a bit different. I love spiced rum; it has so much character and flavour. There are many different types and flavours out there and Dead Man’s Fingers Rum, distilled in Bristol, and Lost Years Arribada Cask Aged Rum and Four Island Rum, is sourced from artisan distillers across the Caribbean and Latin America, are really great examples. I love a little neat rum on the rocks, but it’s also great in a Dark n Stormy cocktail or just with coke and a lime wedge. The warming, spicy vanilla notes complement loads of different barbecue food. Burgers and sausages are great with rum, as is marinated red meat. Why not brush rum on your meat for an extra kick? Matching drinks to sweet dishes can be tricky. As soon as you taste sweet food, your drink will become more bitter, so always make sure that your drink is as sweet or actually sweeter than your dessert. The sweet notes in rum go with all kinds of desserts.

Bourbon / Whiskey

People often think about rich white wines when matching drinks with fish and chicken, but if you’d like something completely different, Bourbon can be a real treat. With fish like salmon, Bourbon can be a great match. Essentially you need something to cut through the rich texture of the fish. The toasty and slightly sweet flavours of Bourbon complement the pink flesh beautifully. Also, try it in a cocktail like a Whisky Sour (which is traditionally made with Bourbon) or as a long drink with sparkling water.

Eagle Rare Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey is a fabulous one to whet your whistle.

The drinks featured were used in the BBQ magazine filming at Lainston House, Hampshire. Check out for social media for our exclusive drinks pairing film with Andy Clarke, produced by Hungry Gap Productions.

Images: Hungry Gap

Made for Meat

Beefsteak Club partnered with BBQ magazine at events up and down the country this summer, with its range of wines pairing and enhancing any live-fire cooking, from Korean beef ribs to smash burgers, Tomahawk steaks with chimichurri to smoky paprika and garlic prawns

MALBEC

The Malbec grapes for Beefsteak Club are sourced from site-selected, high-altitude vineyards in the best sub regions of Mendoza – Argentina’s premium wine growing region at the edge of the Andes. Deep purple in colour with ripe black fruits on the nose. Rich and layered mouthfeel with soft tannins and a long, smooth finish. Pair it with BBQ picanha steak.

THE BEAST

This decadent dark red is blended from traditional grapes of the Portuguese Douro, one of the oldest regions in the history of winemaking. During the maturation process, the wine is aged in Port barrels for extra richness and complexity.

The wine is rich with ripe forest fruit flavours layered over a long, velvet smooth finish. Perfect for pairing with grilled meat, particularly beef or pork in glazed or sticky sauces, such as slow cooked barbecued ribs, tomahawk steak or Ibérico pork chops.

SHIRAZ

Made from selected parcels of Shiraz from South Australia, where a long and warm ripening season ensures optimum grape maturity and ripe fruit flavours, while cool nights maintain fruit elegance and freshness.

Bold and powerful, this Shiraz has flavours of blackcurrant and plum, balanced by a smooth mouthfeel and soft tannins that give a long, intense finish. Match with bacon double smash burgers.

TEMPRANILLO

The Tempranillo grapes for this wine come from old bush-vines grown in the province of Toledo in the north of the central Spanish plains at altitudes of around 700 metres. Pair with a shoulder of lamb marinated for a least three hours, preferably overnight, in paprika, oil and sherry The lamb can be cooked in a covered barbecue and served with chargrilled lemon halves.

CABERNET SAUVIGNON

This rich and full-bodied Cabernet Sauvignon is from Chile, with aromas of fresh blackcurrants, cassis and hits of dark chocolate. Smooth tannins give a silky texture and juicy finish. The perfect accompaniment to casseroles, or try steak with a chimichurri dressing.

FRENCH MALBEC

This Beefsteak Club Malbec comes from the south-west of France, where intense sunshine and cooling sea breezes create ideal grape ripening conditions. Grapes are harvested at night to retain freshness and the wine is unoaked to reflect the pure varietal fruit character.

Concentrated red berry and plum notes with a juicy, layered palate, soft tannins and a warming hint of spice on the finish. Try this Malbec with plates of spicy saucisse merguez for a French BBQ experience.

As a well-established wine importer with origins dating back to 1875, Ehrmanns is a leading wine supplier, including Beefsteak Club wines.

Ehrmanns works with family-owned wineries from over 30 suppliers across 13 countries, ensuring it delivers the right products, at the right quality and the right price.

“As leading category innovators, we have developed a portfolio that will meet our customers’ needs in both branded and exclusive ranges and guarantee each channel is serviced appropriately,” says Keith Lay, head of marketing at Ehrmanns Wine.

Sparkling Wines of France with Roger Jones

There is no better way to celebrate the Rugby World Cup (RWC) in France than exploring the country’s array of sparkling wines – a mere 550 million bottles a year.

Eight French sparkling wine regions, with some 50 Appellations within these areas, are allowed to use the term Crémant, replacing the Méthode Champenoise term.

The regions are Alsace, Bordeaux, Burgundy, Die, Jura, Limoux, Loire and Savoie.

Alsace

Nearest RWC host: Paris

Dirler was the first sparkling producer in Alsace and made a Vin Mousseux as far back as 1880, although it was Dopff au Moulin who put this region’s sparkling wines on the map in the early 1990s.

You may not have Alsace Sparkling on your shopping list, but it is big in France, with 80% of the annual production of 32 million bottles drunk in France.

Generally, Pinot Blanc is the main grape in Alsace Crémant, with some Pinot Gris and Chardonnay used, but Riesling rarely.

Top names to look out for include Cave de Ribeauvillé, Dopff au Moulin, Jean-Claude Buecher, Domaine Joseph Cattin, Willm, Rentz and Frey-Sohler (Riesling).

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Chargrilled turbot head with Alsace Cremant

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Chateau Bauduc Bordeaux

Bordeaux

Nearest RWC host: Bordeaux

Not a huge producer. Both Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon are used for the white-

based sparkling and then all the Cabernets are allowed for the sparkling Rose.

Top for me is Château Bauduc, Blanc de Blancs 2019, Crémant de Bordeaux, made by Englishman Gavin Quinney, where I was recently invited to cook for 150 guests at his chateau.

“Our Crémant comes entirely from a hectare of Sémillon vines that we planted in 2004. The density is 5,550 vines to the hectare, from which we always get a decent yield. That’s helpful as we’re not looking for too much concentration and we need a lighter, more acidic juice for the base wine,” says Gavin.

“It’s handpicked into stackable crates, and the boxes taken to the winery 300 metres away, where the bunches are tipped into the pneumatic press. After light whole bunch pressing, we settle the juice and then cool ferment it in a single stainless steel vat.

“A few months later we add the yeast and sugar before the second fermentation in bottle. This takes place in limestone cellars about five miles from us near

Haux, the next-door village. There they do the ageing and riddling, and the disgorgement some 24 months after the bottling. We add a light dosage of 8g/litre and the alcohol is 11%. “

Burgundy

Nearest RWC host: Lyon

Some 20 million bottles of Crémant Bourgogne are produced, generally made from the Chardonnay grape, with Pinot Noir used for the Rosé.

Top names include André Delorme (Rully), especially its Crémant Rosé.

Die

Nearest RWC host: Lyon

This is in the eastern Rhone area, and, as with Limoux also has two styles of sparkling – Crémant de Die made from mainly Clairette grapes, and Methode Dioise Ancestrale, a sweeter, lower alcohol style that ferments in the bottle.

Look out for Crémant de Die, Domaine Achard-Vincent Brut, made from Clairette, Muscat and Aligoté grapes.

Jura

Nearest RWC host: Lyon

Located between Burgundy and Switzerland, this cool climate region is famous for making Vin Jaune; white wines not dissimilar to sherry, but its Crémant du Jura are generally made from Chardonnay grape and are excellent.

Top names include Domaine Désiré Petit. Try its Blanc des Blancs.

Limoux

Nearest RWC host: Toulouse

Slightly complicated here as there are two distinct styles – the Crémant de Limoux made from Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc and the Blanquette Methode Ancestrale, a luscious, sweet wine not dissimilar to Asti.

Try any of Gérard Bertrand’s Crémant de Limoux. A nice World Cup link here, as Gérard Bertrand played top-class rugby for Narbonne and Stade Francais, before building up one of France’s most respected biodynamic wine estates.

Loire

Nearest RWC host: Nantes

Dominated by the Chenin Blanc grape, and to complicate things there are six different mini appellations: Crémant de Loire, Anjou, Montlouis-sur-Loire, Saumur, Touraine and Samur.

My highlight here is the Crémant Samur, as predominantly the grapes are Chardonnay not Chenin and they sell over 16.5 million bottles a year with over 50% exported.

Top names include Bouvet-Ladubay, with some brands just trading under the Bouvet name, such as Bouvet Saphir Saumur Brut Blanc.

Savoie

Nearest RWC host: Lyon

Relatively new on the scene, this Alpine region was recognised as a Crémant in 2015, despite a long history in making sparkling wine. Using the native Jacquere and Altesse varieties, which thrive well in the higher altitude. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are also allowed.

Names to look out for are Domaine Belluard and André & Michel Quenard.

Champagne

Nearest RWC host: Paris

Of course, we cannot leave out the finest bubbles of them all – Champagne. Last year, 326 million bottles were sold, with 187 million exported.

And if France win the Rugby World Cup, it will be champagne flowing down the Seine.

Whether it is Non Vintage, Vintage or Multi Vintage there will certainly be bargains coming up to help the celebrations.

As a passionate Welsh rugby fan, I am going for Pommery, as it is a favourite of former Wales, British & Irish Lions and Racing Metro centre Jamie Roberts.

Wines of Portugal with Roger Jones

Portuguese cooking is not just about sardines. Dig a bit deeper and you will uncover a rich variety of styles and dishes, and in the south, especially in the coastal area of the Algarve, a hint to Indian cuisine.

Portugal has had a huge influence on India, especially in Goa, which Portugal ruled until 1961, and introduced some spices to India. The name vindaloo actually derives from the Portuguese dish carne de vinha d’alhos, which is a dish of meat, usually pork, with wine and garlic.

The Portuguese dish was modified by the substitution of vinegar – usually palm vinegar – for red wine and the addition of red Kashmiri chillies with spices to evolve into vindaloo.

Another popular dish, which mirrors paella from Spain, is arroz de marisco, more of a seafood stew, and not completely dry like the traditional paella, and does not contain saffron, but light spices, chilli and coriander. It is cooked in a pot with a lid, as opposed to an open pan.

BBQ SEAFOOD

Grilled fish

Everything from turbot to sea bass to gilthead bream, all simply slit in half but kept whole with pin bones taken out, sprinkled with salt (no oil) then grilled and seasoned again once cooked with sea salt and extra virgin olive oil.

Clams

Whether it is surf, razor, middle neck, violets, carpet-shell, Portugal, especially along the coast, is awash with clams. These are perfect cooked on a BBQ in specially designed grill mats/mesh, although, traditionally, in Portugal they are cooked in extra virgin olive oil, white wine and parsley or coriander.

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Octopus

Portugal must be the capital of the octopus, and there are fishing villages dotted along the Algarve coast that specialise in octopus fishing, none more so than Santa Luzia near Tavira. There is even a Michelin Bib Gourmand restaurant here, Casa do Polvo Tasquinha, specialising in octopus dishes, all 24 of them.

One of my favourite dishes is the chargrilled octopus, served with roasted sweet potatoes seasoned with curry spices, and finished with chopped coriander.

Cuttlefish

Another classic Portuguese seafood is cuttlefish, which is also in abundance around the southern and western coasts of the UK and offers excellent value. Simple to prepare but be aware of the black ink. Slice in half leaving the cuttlebone inside to protect it while cooking, and simply grill for 10 minutes with a seasoning of sea salt. Once cooked, sprinkle with extra virgin olive oil.

WINES

White grapes

Arinto is grown throughout Portugal. This grape produces vibrant wines with flavours of orchard fruits and citrus, which are best enjoyed young.

Fernão Pires is a versatile varietal that is found more widely in southern Portugal. Fernão Pires – also known as Maria Gomes in northern Portugal – can be picked at various ripeness levels for different flavour profiles, from bright citrus, to luscious peach, and fragrant tropical fruits.

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Alvarinho is grown throughout Portugal and is the country’s best known white varietal. The grape produces a wine that is full of character, deep in body and with zesty acidity. The best examples are highly aromatic with notes of peach, passion fruit, orange blossom and lychee.

Verdelho originated in Madeira. This native Portuguese varietal is highly regarded for its ability to retain a high natural acidity when grown in warm climates. Extremely fragrant, this grape showcases notes of mango, papaya and citrus, as well as fresh herbs and stony minerality.

Other white grapes found in Portugal include Muscat, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Viognier.

Red grapes

Touriga Nacional is Portugal’s best known red varietal. Producing wines with high tannins, full body and flavours, like dark berries, plums and purple flowers, this grape loves southern Portugal’s very warm climate.

Trincadeira is a hot-weather-loving varietal flourishing in the southern regions where the growing season is longer, allowing the grape to achieve full ripeness. Although difficult to grow, Trincadeira produces wines with bright raspberry flavours, herbal and spicy tones while retaining its acidity.

Castelão is found predominantly in southern Portugal, and prospers in the poor, sandy-clay soils. The grape has the ability to produce well-structured wines with vibrant acidity and an endearing rustic quality with notes of plum, redcurrants and meaty aromas.

Aragonês is known to the Spaniards as Tempranillo and as Tinto Roriz in northern Portugal. This varietal makes rich and robust wines and is often found in blends rather than as a single varietal wine. Thriving in both sandy and clay soils, Aragonês produces smooth, fruit-forward wines with undertones of spice.

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Others to savour

Alvarinho

This is, for me, Portugal’s star grape.

It is a lovely elegant ancient grape, intensely floral and fruity, offering notes of honeysuckle, white peach, grapefruit and apple alongside a refreshing crispness – and yes it’s the same as Albarino from Spain.

Moscatel Graudo

This may have originated from Greece where it is known as Muscat d’Alexandrie. Joao Pires Branco, Moscatel Graudo is an excellent fresh floral white wine that excels with sunny temperatures and shellfish.

Ninfa

The best sparkling wine that I have tried from Portugal is from the Ninfa vineyard in Tejo. 100% Pinot Noir, it is an evocative mouthful of delicate bubbles, a touch of salmon pink colour, beautifully balanced with a restrained elegance. The acidity is very gentle with the Pinot showcasing how good a Blanc de Noirs can be with a barbecue. The vineyard also makes an outstanding Sauvignon Blanc – the Ninfa Sauvignon Blanc 2020, fabulous with a salad of chargrilled octopus.

Vineyard spotlight

Taboadella, owned by Luisa Amorim, is a stunning state-of-the-art, fourth generation family winery in the Dao region of Portugal. The winery provides a range of styles and prices, from the discovery wines of Villae Branco and Tinto, moving on to Reservas using ancestral local grape varieties and culminating in its superb Grande Villae wines.

The grapes for the Villae Branco (white) include Encruzado, Bica and Cercial, giving a fresh citrus outlook, hints of tropical notes, with plenty of depth and texture.

Top of the range is the Taboadella Grande Villae red made from Alfrocheiro, Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz. This is rich and full of red and hedgerow fruits, spices, vanilla and delicate perfume aromas and opens up beautifully in the glass. A wine to cellar.

Dao is a region to look out for, with many excellent wineries being established there since it became a DOC in 1990.

Four to pour

Reims to Rathfinny, shandy with a twist and a giraffe called Gerald. JEMIMA NELSON mixes her drinks around the summer fires

LANSON

Founded in 1760, Lanson is one of the oldest champagne houses, with its roots firmly in France in the heart of Reims but enjoyed in more than 80 countries around the world.

Lanson is an official supplier to the British Royal Family and since 1977 has been the official champagne of the Wimbledon tennis championships. It also supplies champagne to Arsenal FC.

Lanson champagne pairs exceptionally well with fire food, and Robert Rand, managing director of Lanson International UK, recommends Le Blanc de Blancs to accompany grilled fish or shellfish.

“Lanson Blanc de Blancs is 100% Chardonnay. Its delicacy and finesse are enhanced by a very pure, mineral finish and by the freshness that is the hallmark of the Lanson style,” says Rand.

“As a gastronomic champagne, its ample texture and persistent finish will pair perfectly with fresh, minerally dishes. Grapes are blended from the best Crus from two very different regions, offering a unique balance to the wine, the Côte des Blancs producing fine and elegant grapes and the Montagne de Reims giving fleshy and rich grapes.”

Lanson recommends pairing with scallops carpaccio with lime and yuzu lemon, or a croque madame with Reims ham.

Another BBQ choice is Lanson’s Le Rosé, if you are looking for a champagne to go with a range of meats, be it chicken, pork, or especially lamb, served with a fresh, zesty dressing.

Both wines, says Rand, can also pair nicely with vegetarian dishes on the grill, such as courgette, cauliflower and squash.

“The subtle additions of red wines from emblematic Crus such as Bouzy and Les Riceys, the exclusive use of rosé reserve wines and the original vinification method, gives Le Rosé a unique pale, salmon colour and a fruitiness and a finesse.”

Le Rosé is a blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier sourced from over 100 Crus. A pink salmon colour – and try it with salmon in a sesame crust – it has scents of raspberry, pomegranate and blood orange, while the notes on the palate are floral and fruity – strawberry, redcurrant and pomelo.

“With Wimbledon coming up, it goes without saying that Le Rosé also pairs delightfully with strawberries and cream.”

RATHFINNY

Recently B Corp certified, Rathfinny is the Sussex family-owned winery established in 2010 by husband-and-wife team Mark and Sarah Driver, dedicated to producing fine English sparkling wine.

Once a working farm, the Rathfinny wine estate near Alfriston in East Sussex planted its first vines in 2012. Over 10 years later, the vineyard on the South Downs now takes in more than 230 acres of primarily Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Pinot Meunier grape varieties. All vintage wines, the Rathfinny portfolio comprises the 2018 Classic Cuvée, 2018 Blanc de Blancs, 2018 Blanc de Noirs and 2018 Rosé.

Alongside producing wine, Rathfinny attracts plenty of wine tourism, offering vineyard tours and wine tastings, as well as outdoor dining experiences, barbecues and indulgent feasts.

This summer, Rathfinny is hosting Dine in the Vines, celebrating seasonal produce from the land, sea, and gardens of Britain. The events provide feasting experiences on long tables within the vines, with wine flights and menus prepared by The Tasting Room chefs. Dine in the Vines includes a Celebration of Sussex Farmers Feast, a Lobster Feast and a Barbecue Feast, with meat cooked on Big Green Eggs.

“Our Sussex sparkling wines are super food-friendly and what better way to enjoy than at a gathering with friends and family for a barbecue. Our portfolio includes four different sparkling wines which can be accompanied throughout a meal,” says Rathfinny brand ambassador Abi Reid.

“You can start with Rathfinny Classic Cuvée 2018 with a vegetarian dish like a cauliflower steak cooked over coals with almond cream, white raisins, capers and wild garlic. Then move on to seafood with Rathfinny Blanc de Blancs 2018, or steak with Rathfinny Blanc de Noirs 2018. For dessert, it has to be Rathfinny Rosé 2018 with some influence of red English berries, which will really taste like summer in a glass.”

Reid says a sirloin of Sussex beef pairs beautifully with a Blanc de Noirs, or maybe try a Blanc de Blancs with barbecued Cornish lobster.

“The acidity in our sparkling wines helps to cut through rich and fatty dishes and the fruit-forward characteristics also add depth to meat and fish flavours.”

The Blanc de Noirs is a fruity style match for the umami sweet flavours from the likes of steamed barbecue pork buns, or crispy duck with hoisin sauce.

SHANDY SHACK

Shandy Shack, in the Cotswolds village of Bampton, was founded in 2018 by Ed Stapleton, Tom Stevens and Fred Gleadowe, three friends in their late-20s, to ‘enable moderation without compromise through a range of fun, delicious low-alcohol alternatives’.

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“We are all active outgoing people, often finding ourselves hankering after a lighter option to high ABV beers. It was here the shandy revival started,” says Tom Stevens.

The trio toured UK festivals with a concept and a hand-built, pop-up bar and Shandy Shack is now available nationwide, including Sainsbury’s, and winning two Great Taste Awards along the way.

Stevens say the lighter option of shandy is ideal for long summer evenings in the garden, perfect to serve ice cold at a barbecue or with a picnic on the beach.

“Our IPA Shandy and Ginger Beer Shandy are brilliant companions to darker or spiced meats, such as pulled beef, peppered steak, jerk chicken and smoky burgers,” said Stevens.

“The lighter Elderflower Lager Top and Rhubarb Lager complement more delicate cuts like grilled chicken and salmon.”

Shandy Shack’s Elderflower Lager Top is a light, crisp pilsner topped with a splash of elderflower cordial – ‘summers on the village green’, while the IPA Shandy is a golden, hop-packed session drink, together with fresh lemonade. “Think afternoon beside the sea,” says Stevens.

The Rhubarb Lager is ‘the first long walk of spring’ while the Ginger Beer Shandy, a malty pale ale, ‘tastes like cosy nights by an open fire’.

THE UNCOMMON

Meet Gerald, Eleanor, Alfie and Peggy.

The Uncommon does what it says on the can, delivering English sparkling wine and botanical spritzers with delightful, playful, anthropomorphic branding.

The Uncommon, founded in 2018 by Henry Connell and Alex Thraves, uses only the finest varietals – Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, Chardonnay – and Bacchus grapes, England’s answer to Sauvignon Blanc, grown and hand-picked from vineyards in Kent, Sussex and Hampshire, producing aromatic, sparkling wines that thrive in cans.

“The can format is not only better for the wines, keeping out air and light so they are fresher for longer, but also for the planet, with a carbon footprint 75% lighter than a traditional glass bottle,” says Connell, with The Uncommon now certified B Corp.

Recyclable, quick to chill and a single serve option, the Uncommon is a practical accompaniment to any al fresco dining, be it BBQ, beach, picnic, campsite, or back garden.

First up is Gerald, an English sparkling, dry and refreshing with notes of elderflower, green apple and freshly cut grass and to be opened alongside freshly shucked oysters.

Eleanor is a bubbly rose with strawberry notes to pair with smoked salmon. Alfie is a white wine spritzer with elderflower and cucumber botanical extracts and Peggy a rose wine spritzer, smelling of mint and jasmine.

Old friends Connell and Thraves quit their corporate jobs in New York and London respectively with ‘a dream of creating a modern, sustainable English wine brand’.

Connell left the world of property investment to retrain in viniculture, while Thraves used his design background to create the brand.

“Our ambition is to be the most sustainable wine brand in Europe, and the go-to for premium canned wine. We don’t just do what we do as a trend or fancy; we wholeheartedly believe that our format and small footprint has a part to play in the future of the wine industry,” says Thraves.