Wines of Portugal with Roger Jones
Portuguese cooking is not just about sardines. Dig a bit deeper and you will uncover a rich variety of styles and dishes, and in the south, especially in the coastal area of the Algarve, a hint to Indian cuisine.
Portugal has had a huge influence on India, especially in Goa, which Portugal ruled until 1961, and introduced some spices to India. The name vindaloo actually derives from the Portuguese dish carne de vinha d’alhos, which is a dish of meat, usually pork, with wine and garlic.
The Portuguese dish was modified by the substitution of vinegar – usually palm vinegar – for red wine and the addition of red Kashmiri chillies with spices to evolve into vindaloo.
Another popular dish, which mirrors paella from Spain, is arroz de marisco, more of a seafood stew, and not completely dry like the traditional paella, and does not contain saffron, but light spices, chilli and coriander. It is cooked in a pot with a lid, as opposed to an open pan.
BBQ SEAFOOD
Grilled fish
Everything from turbot to sea bass to gilthead bream, all simply slit in half but kept whole with pin bones taken out, sprinkled with salt (no oil) then grilled and seasoned again once cooked with sea salt and extra virgin olive oil.
Clams
Whether it is surf, razor, middle neck, violets, carpet-shell, Portugal, especially along the coast, is awash with clams. These are perfect cooked on a BBQ in specially designed grill mats/mesh, although, traditionally, in Portugal they are cooked in extra virgin olive oil, white wine and parsley or coriander.
Octopus
Portugal must be the capital of the octopus, and there are fishing villages dotted along the Algarve coast that specialise in octopus fishing, none more so than Santa Luzia near Tavira. There is even a Michelin Bib Gourmand restaurant here, Casa do Polvo Tasquinha, specialising in octopus dishes, all 24 of them.
One of my favourite dishes is the chargrilled octopus, served with roasted sweet potatoes seasoned with curry spices, and finished with chopped coriander.
Cuttlefish
Another classic Portuguese seafood is cuttlefish, which is also in abundance around the southern and western coasts of the UK and offers excellent value. Simple to prepare but be aware of the black ink. Slice in half leaving the cuttlebone inside to protect it while cooking, and simply grill for 10 minutes with a seasoning of sea salt. Once cooked, sprinkle with extra virgin olive oil.
WINES
White grapes
Arinto is grown throughout Portugal. This grape produces vibrant wines with flavours of orchard fruits and citrus, which are best enjoyed young.
Fernão Pires is a versatile varietal that is found more widely in southern Portugal. Fernão Pires – also known as Maria Gomes in northern Portugal – can be picked at various ripeness levels for different flavour profiles, from bright citrus, to luscious peach, and fragrant tropical fruits.
Alvarinho is grown throughout Portugal and is the country’s best known white varietal. The grape produces a wine that is full of character, deep in body and with zesty acidity. The best examples are highly aromatic with notes of peach, passion fruit, orange blossom and lychee.
Verdelho originated in Madeira. This native Portuguese varietal is highly regarded for its ability to retain a high natural acidity when grown in warm climates. Extremely fragrant, this grape showcases notes of mango, papaya and citrus, as well as fresh herbs and stony minerality.
Other white grapes found in Portugal include Muscat, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Viognier.
Red grapes
Touriga Nacional is Portugal’s best known red varietal. Producing wines with high tannins, full body and flavours, like dark berries, plums and purple flowers, this grape loves southern Portugal’s very warm climate.
Trincadeira is a hot-weather-loving varietal flourishing in the southern regions where the growing season is longer, allowing the grape to achieve full ripeness. Although difficult to grow, Trincadeira produces wines with bright raspberry flavours, herbal and spicy tones while retaining its acidity.
Castelão is found predominantly in southern Portugal, and prospers in the poor, sandy-clay soils. The grape has the ability to produce well-structured wines with vibrant acidity and an endearing rustic quality with notes of plum, redcurrants and meaty aromas.
Aragonês is known to the Spaniards as Tempranillo and as Tinto Roriz in northern Portugal. This varietal makes rich and robust wines and is often found in blends rather than as a single varietal wine. Thriving in both sandy and clay soils, Aragonês produces smooth, fruit-forward wines with undertones of spice.
Others to savour
Alvarinho
This is, for me, Portugal’s star grape.
It is a lovely elegant ancient grape, intensely floral and fruity, offering notes of honeysuckle, white peach, grapefruit and apple alongside a refreshing crispness – and yes it’s the same as Albarino from Spain.
Moscatel Graudo
This may have originated from Greece where it is known as Muscat d’Alexandrie. Joao Pires Branco, Moscatel Graudo is an excellent fresh floral white wine that excels with sunny temperatures and shellfish.
Ninfa
The best sparkling wine that I have tried from Portugal is from the Ninfa vineyard in Tejo. 100% Pinot Noir, it is an evocative mouthful of delicate bubbles, a touch of salmon pink colour, beautifully balanced with a restrained elegance. The acidity is very gentle with the Pinot showcasing how good a Blanc de Noirs can be with a barbecue. The vineyard also makes an outstanding Sauvignon Blanc – the Ninfa Sauvignon Blanc 2020, fabulous with a salad of chargrilled octopus.
Vineyard spotlight
Taboadella, owned by Luisa Amorim, is a stunning state-of-the-art, fourth generation family winery in the Dao region of Portugal. The winery provides a range of styles and prices, from the discovery wines of Villae Branco and Tinto, moving on to Reservas using ancestral local grape varieties and culminating in its superb Grande Villae wines.
The grapes for the Villae Branco (white) include Encruzado, Bica and Cercial, giving a fresh citrus outlook, hints of tropical notes, with plenty of depth and texture.
Top of the range is the Taboadella Grande Villae red made from Alfrocheiro, Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz. This is rich and full of red and hedgerow fruits, spices, vanilla and delicate perfume aromas and opens up beautifully in the glass. A wine to cellar.
Dao is a region to look out for, with many excellent wineries being established there since it became a DOC in 1990.