Fizz, Fish and Fire with Roger Jones
Fizz, Fish and Fire with Roger Jones
Issue 11 | Spring 2023
One of the most common mistakes consumers make is to categorise Cava and Prosecco in the same ice bucket.
The traditional method of making a bottle of fizz involves creating a still wine and then bottling it with yeast and sugar, which form bubbles when left to ferment.
Champagne, English Sparkling and Cava are made in this way, while Prosecco uses the tank method.
Adding yeast means time is needed for the flavours to evolve. Champagne takes a minimum of 15 months to produce the best flavours and aromas, while Cava can be made from nine months, but often much longer.
The tank method used by Prosecco is a much more economical and simpler process, with everything processed in a tank, with this process taking from less than six weeks to six months.
Prosecco is made from one grape variety – Glera. It is a white variety of Slovenian origin, which was brought to the Italian village of Prosecco. Prior to 2009 the grape was called Prosecco, but EEC rules forced the name change to protect the wine’s status.
The Glera grape has little complexity or flavour, hence the addition of sugar resulting in a sweeter style sparkling.
The key, besides the quality of the grapes, is time, which is then reflected in the cost and style.
Cava is aged from nine months to over 48 months (for Gran Reserva), or even over 100 months for special releases.
Cava uses not only traditional Champagne grapes such as Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, but local Spanish varieties, which make up the majority of the production. The main ones are Macabeo (providing fruit), Xarel-lo (strength and body) and Parellada (softness and aroma).
95% of Cava comes from the Penedès region of Catalonia, about an hour’s drive from Barcelona. However, not everything has been ‘sparkling’ for Cava growers.
Firstly the EEC upset them with regulations when Spain joined the Common Market in 1986 and more recently the setting up of clubs by the small growers seeking to highlight their quality against the big two giants Freixenet and Codorniu.
The latest club, set up in 2018, is Corpinnat, consisting of 11 members. Rules to join this club include certified organic grapes and historical varieties, manual harvest and 100% vinified on the premises, with minimum ageing of 18 months.
This naturally means that certain great Cava producers are excluded, for example, for using Chardonnay, but it is definitely a way forward to highlight the quality coming from Sparkling wine in Penedès.
So what can we expect from Cava? It is made in the exact way as Champagne or English sparkling wine and will offer you excellent quality and value. You can spend more, just like with Champagne, and rest assured these are quite superb, but I would suggest to start with you look at something like Pere Ventura at £8.99 and Juve & Camps at under £15.
Cava will be dry, not sweet like Prosecco. Cost is, of course, a reflection of quality but spending between £9 and £15 offers great value. Cava in this price range should reflect cheaper Champagne brands.
Pere Ventura Reserva Non Vintage is fresh, clean and easy drinking, with toasty brioche with fresh apple, and great value at £8.99 in Waitrose. The range includes the excellent Pere Ventura, Vintage Brut, 2012.
Juve y Camps, Brut Nature Gran Reserva, 2017 is made from free run juice, with 55% Xarel-lo, 35% Macabeo and 10% Parellada. This is fresh and clean on first taste; then the golden wine evolves with some toasty brioche, stone fruit and fresh citrus.
This has been aged on average for three years giving it great complexity, with a perfect alcohol level of 12%. Priced at £14.99 at Majestic makes it one of the best value aged vintage sparkling wines in the UK.
Juve y Camps, La Siberia Gran Reserva Rose, 2012 is at the other end of the price range and available at Harvey Nichols at £160 a bottle. This 100% Pinot Noir is named La Siberia because of the cold climate the vines are grown in, which ripen very slowly, producing an incredible quality wine that has aged on lees for about 80 months.
There are tangerine, fresh bakery notes, hints of mineral and barbecue smoke, freshened with dark raspberries, cherries, frais de bois, rosebuds and a scent of pure joy. The packaging looks not dissimilar to Dom Perignon and very much in the same class.
Gramona Imperial, Corpinnat, Brut 2017 is of the exclusive Corpinnat group. This Cava has had 15 months on lees and is full of clean precise stone fruit, nectarines and peaches, savoury and spiced – a very elegant style for just over £20 a bottle. The range goes right up to the incredible Celler Batlle Brut 2010, which has been aged for 108 months and will set you back over £100.
In terms of food pairings, paella is of course a classic Spanish dish we know and love and its contents vary dependent on the region or closeness to the sea. This gives you the opportunity to expand your culinary skills and impress your guests. To most people paella is based on seafood, but it can equally work as vegetarian, meat only, or a combination of all three.
Some basic cooking tips are to use either paella or Arborio rice. Add plenty of juicy ingredients, so chicken should be skinless thighs; use cooking chorizo – with spice – picante, red onions, sweet pointed red peppers, good quality paprika, extra virgin olive oil. In a variation from normal mussels, look to monkfish (on the cartilage), shelled raw frozen prawns, langoustines and clams. The best liquid to add is Big Tom tomato juice or a quality supermarket tomato and basil sauce.
Paella pans are inexpensive with lots of good value ones online. The secret is in keeping the heat monitored.
Fish is a fine match for Cava. Be it small sardines, sea bream or sea bass, these oily fish are lovely dipped in olive oil and salt prior to grilling. A touch of charcoal burn is fine on the skin, while a splash of lemon juice will refresh it.
The big new food pairing for Cava is Japanese, especially sushi. So if you are starting off your BBQ with some nibbles, either order some sushi in, or make up a few simple bites to go with your Cava.
Fizz, fish and fire – the perfect combination.
Grenache with Roger Jones
Grenache with Roger Jones
This may not be on everyone’s shopping list, but, in recent years, the Grenache grape has grown in momentum and stature. At the very top, from the Rhône in France, there is Chateau Rayas at £2,000 a bottle, to an Australian wine at under £10.
There cannot be many grape varieties that have seen such a monumental change in their prosperity than Grenache, especially from Australia. Grenache was originally used in Australia for their fortified wines; after the end of World War II vineyards were planted in South Australia with Grenache and given to returning soldiers at hugely discounted prices. For many years these went into bulk and homemade wines, with the vineyards now highly sought after due to their age and quality.
Grenache is popular in the Rhône, especially with Châteauneuf-du-Pape, although this wine can include Mourvèdre and Syrah. The flavours from a classic Châteauneuf-du-Pape have a raspberry and plummy feel to begin with, then they will evolve in your mouth, giving savoury and herby notes. Wine buffs call these herb notes garrigue, reflecting the local scrubland around the vines, full of sage, rosemary and lavender. On the finish there is a sweet strawberry freshness.
Spain is another hotbed of Grenache, known there as Garnacha and made famous by some superstars from Priorat. This success prompted some of Spain’s younger, more modern winemakers to see that Garnacha had potential all over the country. Consequently you will find winemakers in places like Aragón in the north, and in central Spain around Madrid. Garnacha is also often used in blends to give their red wines a fresh uplift.
The style of Garnacha from Spain is fruitier, often with a touch more alcohol – think raspberry and strawberries with a dusting of white pepper; with older, more expensive wines think plummy, rich ripe figs.
California also has Grenache on an upward spiral but check the percentage as they can hit 15%, although anything below 13.5% will be pretty pleasant on the head.
Summer Road Old Vine Grenache 2022
South Australia | £7.49
A bargain here from Waitrose. Fresh bright strawberry notes, hints of vanilla spice, juicy and lively – an excellent introduction to the Grenache grape.
Care, Garnacha Nativa 2020
Carinena, Spain | £11.95
Textured with a minty chocolate note, creamy strawberry mid-palate and a full mouth feel. Great Spanish style.
Willunga 100, 2021 Smart Vineyard Clarendon Grenache
McLaren Vale, Australia | £28
Loganberries, delicate blackberries, gentle perfume, spiced fruity and velvety. This is fresh, clean and focused – a glorious mouth feel, young and fresh, but plenty of character, with an impressive cool feel on the end. This winery makes a range of Grenache wines, with the cheapest starting at £12.50 a bottle.
The Language of Yes Grenache 2020
Santa Maria, California | £30
Big, aromatic, perfumed style, clean on the palate, pomegranate, hint of ice cream, cool and fresh with a silky luxurious feel. Restrained on the alcohol, this is a lovely wine, showing great class.
Annexus Grenache, John Duval 2022
Eden Valley, Barossa, Australia | £40
I first met John Duval when he was holding the keys to Penfolds Grange, Australia’s foremost wine, and have followed the journey to his own label.
This 95% Grenache (with a small amount of Shiraz and Mataro) is sourced from vines planted 165 years ago, at the Stonegarden Vineyard, just outside Springton in the Eden Valley.
This is plush with dark but precise notes, voluptuous and restrained in the same mouthful – rich spices, vibrant aromatics, focused with a racy acidity. This is complex and complete, with a beautiful perfume. Quite exceptional.
Yangarra High Sands Grenache 2019
Blewitt Springs, McLaren Vale, Australia | £150
This vineyard was planted in 1946. Yangarra has championed Grenache for some time and this wine shows real class, albeit it at £150 a bottle. This has sensitivity throughout, seamless with bright freshness balanced with spices and savoury notes. Cranberry and cherries, with some herbaceous notes, as the wine opens up on the palate with a wonderful mouth feel. This really does showcase how good Grenache can be.
BBQ food to pair with Grenache
Tandoori chicken
The simplest way to make a great Tandoori chicken is to blend a jar of lime pickle with equal amounts of Greek yoghurt and coat the whole chicken with the mixture. Roast in the barbecue until golden in colour and allow plenty of time to rest before serving.
Ox tongue
Possibly the cheapest, most tender, flavoursome piece of meat you will find. Firstly, precook the whole tongue, ideally in a pressure cooker. When it is cooked, allow to cool down in the liquid; do not skin it until its chilled, otherwise it will form another skin. Place on a large skewer or rotisserie fork, and coat in spices of your choice, from a masala mix to Thai spices. Wrapping it in some bacon will give it extra moisture, then simply barbecue until hot.
Duck heart skewers
Succulent, meaty and sweet, with smoked paprika.
Whole grilled sea bream
A great winter dish, spiced up with Arabic ground spices.
Sparkling Wines of France with Roger Jones
Wines of France with Roger Jones
There is no better way to celebrate the Rugby World Cup (RWC) in France than exploring the country’s array of sparkling wines – a mere 550 million bottles a year.
Eight French sparkling wine regions, with some 50 Appellations within these areas, are allowed to use the term Crémant, replacing the Méthode Champenoise term.
The regions are Alsace, Bordeaux, Burgundy, Die, Jura, Limoux, Loire and Savoie.
Alsace
Nearest RWC host: Paris
Dirler was the first sparkling producer in Alsace and made a Vin Mousseux as far back as 1880, although it was Dopff au Moulin who put this region’s sparkling wines on the map in the early 1990s.
You may not have Alsace Sparkling on your shopping list, but it is big in France, with 80% of the annual production of 32 million bottles drunk in France.
Generally, Pinot Blanc is the main grape in Alsace Crémant, with some Pinot Gris and Chardonnay used, but Riesling rarely.
Top names to look out for include Cave de Ribeauvillé, Dopff au Moulin, Jean-Claude Buecher, Domaine Joseph Cattin, Willm, Rentz and Frey-Sohler (Riesling).
Bordeaux
Nearest RWC host: Bordeaux
Not a huge producer. Both Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon are used for the white-
based sparkling and then all the Cabernets are allowed for the sparkling Rose.
Top for me is Château Bauduc, Blanc de Blancs 2019, Crémant de Bordeaux, made by Englishman Gavin Quinney, where I was recently invited to cook for 150 guests at his chateau.
“Our Crémant comes entirely from a hectare of Sémillon vines that we planted in 2004. The density is 5,550 vines to the hectare, from which we always get a decent yield. That’s helpful as we’re not looking for too much concentration and we need a lighter, more acidic juice for the base wine,” says Gavin.
“It’s handpicked into stackable crates, and the boxes taken to the winery 300 metres away, where the bunches are tipped into the pneumatic press. After light whole bunch pressing, we settle the juice and then cool ferment it in a single stainless steel vat.
“A few months later we add the yeast and sugar before the second fermentation in bottle. This takes place in limestone cellars about five miles from us near
Haux, the next-door village. There they do the ageing and riddling, and the disgorgement some 24 months after the bottling. We add a light dosage of 8g/litre and the alcohol is 11%. “
Burgundy
Nearest RWC host: Lyon
Some 20 million bottles of Crémant Bourgogne are produced, generally made from the Chardonnay grape, with Pinot Noir used for the Rosé.
Top names include André Delorme (Rully), especially its Crémant Rosé.
Die
Nearest RWC host: Lyon
This is in the eastern Rhone area, and, as with Limoux also has two styles of sparkling – Crémant de Die made from mainly Clairette grapes, and Methode Dioise Ancestrale, a sweeter, lower alcohol style that ferments in the bottle.
Look out for Crémant de Die, Domaine Achard-Vincent Brut, made from Clairette, Muscat and Aligoté grapes.
Jura
Nearest RWC host: Lyon
Located between Burgundy and Switzerland, this cool climate region is famous for making Vin Jaune; white wines not dissimilar to sherry, but its Crémant du Jura are generally made from Chardonnay grape and are excellent.
Top names include Domaine Désiré Petit. Try its Blanc des Blancs.
Limoux
Nearest RWC host: Toulouse
Slightly complicated here as there are two distinct styles – the Crémant de Limoux made from Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc and the Blanquette Methode Ancestrale, a luscious, sweet wine not dissimilar to Asti.
Try any of Gérard Bertrand’s Crémant de Limoux. A nice World Cup link here, as Gérard Bertrand played top-class rugby for Narbonne and Stade Francais, before building up one of France’s most respected biodynamic wine estates.
Loire
Nearest RWC host: Nantes
Dominated by the Chenin Blanc grape, and to complicate things there are six different mini appellations: Crémant de Loire, Anjou, Montlouis-sur-Loire, Saumur, Touraine and Samur.
My highlight here is the Crémant Samur, as predominantly the grapes are Chardonnay not Chenin and they sell over 16.5 million bottles a year with over 50% exported.
Top names include Bouvet-Ladubay, with some brands just trading under the Bouvet name, such as Bouvet Saphir Saumur Brut Blanc.
Savoie
Nearest RWC host: Lyon
Relatively new on the scene, this Alpine region was recognised as a Crémant in 2015, despite a long history in making sparkling wine. Using the native Jacquere and Altesse varieties, which thrive well in the higher altitude. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are also allowed.
Names to look out for are Domaine Belluard and André & Michel Quenard.
Champagne
Nearest RWC host: Paris
Of course, we cannot leave out the finest bubbles of them all – Champagne. Last year, 326 million bottles were sold, with 187 million exported.
And if France win the Rugby World Cup, it will be champagne flowing down the Seine.
Whether it is Non Vintage, Vintage or Multi Vintage there will certainly be bargains coming up to help the celebrations.
As a passionate Welsh rugby fan, I am going for Pommery, as it is a favourite of former Wales, British & Irish Lions and Racing Metro centre Jamie Roberts.
Wines of Portugal with Roger Jones
Wines of Portugal with Roger Jones
Portuguese cooking is not just about sardines. Dig a bit deeper and you will uncover a rich variety of styles and dishes, and in the south, especially in the coastal area of the Algarve, a hint to Indian cuisine.
Portugal has had a huge influence on India, especially in Goa, which Portugal ruled until 1961, and introduced some spices to India. The name vindaloo actually derives from the Portuguese dish carne de vinha d’alhos, which is a dish of meat, usually pork, with wine and garlic.
The Portuguese dish was modified by the substitution of vinegar – usually palm vinegar – for red wine and the addition of red Kashmiri chillies with spices to evolve into vindaloo.
Another popular dish, which mirrors paella from Spain, is arroz de marisco, more of a seafood stew, and not completely dry like the traditional paella, and does not contain saffron, but light spices, chilli and coriander. It is cooked in a pot with a lid, as opposed to an open pan.
BBQ SEAFOOD
Grilled fish
Everything from turbot to sea bass to gilthead bream, all simply slit in half but kept whole with pin bones taken out, sprinkled with salt (no oil) then grilled and seasoned again once cooked with sea salt and extra virgin olive oil.
Clams
Whether it is surf, razor, middle neck, violets, carpet-shell, Portugal, especially along the coast, is awash with clams. These are perfect cooked on a BBQ in specially designed grill mats/mesh, although, traditionally, in Portugal they are cooked in extra virgin olive oil, white wine and parsley or coriander.
Octopus
Portugal must be the capital of the octopus, and there are fishing villages dotted along the Algarve coast that specialise in octopus fishing, none more so than Santa Luzia near Tavira. There is even a Michelin Bib Gourmand restaurant here, Casa do Polvo Tasquinha, specialising in octopus dishes, all 24 of them.
One of my favourite dishes is the chargrilled octopus, served with roasted sweet potatoes seasoned with curry spices, and finished with chopped coriander.
Cuttlefish
Another classic Portuguese seafood is cuttlefish, which is also in abundance around the southern and western coasts of the UK and offers excellent value. Simple to prepare but be aware of the black ink. Slice in half leaving the cuttlebone inside to protect it while cooking, and simply grill for 10 minutes with a seasoning of sea salt. Once cooked, sprinkle with extra virgin olive oil.
WINES
White grapes
Arinto is grown throughout Portugal. This grape produces vibrant wines with flavours of orchard fruits and citrus, which are best enjoyed young.
Fernão Pires is a versatile varietal that is found more widely in southern Portugal. Fernão Pires – also known as Maria Gomes in northern Portugal – can be picked at various ripeness levels for different flavour profiles, from bright citrus, to luscious peach, and fragrant tropical fruits.
Alvarinho is grown throughout Portugal and is the country’s best known white varietal. The grape produces a wine that is full of character, deep in body and with zesty acidity. The best examples are highly aromatic with notes of peach, passion fruit, orange blossom and lychee.
Verdelho originated in Madeira. This native Portuguese varietal is highly regarded for its ability to retain a high natural acidity when grown in warm climates. Extremely fragrant, this grape showcases notes of mango, papaya and citrus, as well as fresh herbs and stony minerality.
Other white grapes found in Portugal include Muscat, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Viognier.
Red grapes
Touriga Nacional is Portugal’s best known red varietal. Producing wines with high tannins, full body and flavours, like dark berries, plums and purple flowers, this grape loves southern Portugal’s very warm climate.
Trincadeira is a hot-weather-loving varietal flourishing in the southern regions where the growing season is longer, allowing the grape to achieve full ripeness. Although difficult to grow, Trincadeira produces wines with bright raspberry flavours, herbal and spicy tones while retaining its acidity.
Castelão is found predominantly in southern Portugal, and prospers in the poor, sandy-clay soils. The grape has the ability to produce well-structured wines with vibrant acidity and an endearing rustic quality with notes of plum, redcurrants and meaty aromas.
Aragonês is known to the Spaniards as Tempranillo and as Tinto Roriz in northern Portugal. This varietal makes rich and robust wines and is often found in blends rather than as a single varietal wine. Thriving in both sandy and clay soils, Aragonês produces smooth, fruit-forward wines with undertones of spice.
Others to savour
Alvarinho
This is, for me, Portugal’s star grape.
It is a lovely elegant ancient grape, intensely floral and fruity, offering notes of honeysuckle, white peach, grapefruit and apple alongside a refreshing crispness – and yes it’s the same as Albarino from Spain.
Moscatel Graudo
This may have originated from Greece where it is known as Muscat d’Alexandrie. Joao Pires Branco, Moscatel Graudo is an excellent fresh floral white wine that excels with sunny temperatures and shellfish.
Ninfa
The best sparkling wine that I have tried from Portugal is from the Ninfa vineyard in Tejo. 100% Pinot Noir, it is an evocative mouthful of delicate bubbles, a touch of salmon pink colour, beautifully balanced with a restrained elegance. The acidity is very gentle with the Pinot showcasing how good a Blanc de Noirs can be with a barbecue. The vineyard also makes an outstanding Sauvignon Blanc – the Ninfa Sauvignon Blanc 2020, fabulous with a salad of chargrilled octopus.
Vineyard spotlight
Taboadella, owned by Luisa Amorim, is a stunning state-of-the-art, fourth generation family winery in the Dao region of Portugal. The winery provides a range of styles and prices, from the discovery wines of Villae Branco and Tinto, moving on to Reservas using ancestral local grape varieties and culminating in its superb Grande Villae wines.
The grapes for the Villae Branco (white) include Encruzado, Bica and Cercial, giving a fresh citrus outlook, hints of tropical notes, with plenty of depth and texture.
Top of the range is the Taboadella Grande Villae red made from Alfrocheiro, Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz. This is rich and full of red and hedgerow fruits, spices, vanilla and delicate perfume aromas and opens up beautifully in the glass. A wine to cellar.
Dao is a region to look out for, with many excellent wineries being established there since it became a DOC in 1990.